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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.